Greetings all, I want to try to piece together my life during the last 2 months of training also know as Stage, before I forget and the memories fade. So quickly the events and environs that were so strange when I first got off of the plane on June 29th with the 72 other trainees have become commonplace. Once astounded by the heaps and heaps of litter and dead animals, now I just step over, through, or around it without a second glance. A word like "revolting" was part of my early e-mails of Mauritania. Okay, it's still part of my description, but a much smaller part. If you come for a visit, brace yourself. Take heart, the place will grow on you. Possibly literally.
I have spent a lot of time working on the name for this blog. Namelessness has been the hold up. I considered In Search of My Roots as I am au natural of hair color for the first time in oh, about 25 years. Why Madame Toubab? Once upon a time I was walking to the market, and par usual, a gang of children were running to meet me and shake my hand, yelling toubab, toubab, madame, bonjour, ca va, ca va bien, bonjour, toubab, toubab, bonjour, cava. You get the picture. Anyway, this lovely little girl with enormous brown eyes who came up to about my knees came running to me calling Madame Toubab. Natually, I responded. How could I not. A title. That was the ticket. That was exactly what I needed and deserved. So from that day forward, I have been known in my Peace Corps circle as Madame Toubab and will answer to nothing else.
Most nights I sleep out under the enormous African sky. It’s a dramatic sky. When the occasional storm comes rolling in you can see if for hours. Then all of the sudden it is on top of you. The Lightening will light up the entire sky in the distance. The full moon is so bright that it wakes me up from a sound sleep as if someone is pointing a light right into my eyes. It reminds me of the scene from the movie MoonStruck. (Can you believe none of the v’s here have seen it) On a moonless night, it is pitch black. You can’t see your hand in front of your face. Eventually millions of stars will appear along with the Milky Way. When I am awaken by the first prayer call at 4:19 AM, there are a billion stars. It’s the sky of my youth camping in Southern Indiana, swinging on the swings, wishing on the stars, wondering what life will hold. Funny, I am still wishing on stars wondering what my life has in store for me. Who knew that all these many years later, I'd still not have that answer?
I’ve only been at my permanent site for 1.5 weeks but even now, Boghe, my training site, seems such a long time ago. Back then I was integrated, had a huge family full of handsome, gallant brothers to care for me, prominent community members that recognized me and greeted me on the street and I could shake hands with everyone, men and women. Ma shallah. I went to class everyday. I showed up at home each noon and evening for meals. I had to be home before dark. I couldn’t wonder off without telling someone where I was going. I spent all of my money on sodas and cookies for snacks. It was a simpler life.
The training in Mauritania is different from other PC countries. It is shorter, only 2 months, but it is community based meaning we live with a host family and take daily language lessons in groups of 2-5. We did spend the first week together at the Lycee, (a high school campus with it's classrooms turned into dorms) which after 5 days reminded me of a frat house the day after a party sans the stale beer smell. (Mauritania is a dry country and I don't just mean it's 2 deserts) Toilets overflowing. Luggage overflowing. Overwhelmingly hot. Not pleasant. Praise Allah it didn’t rain. I must commend the 50 women crammed into this dorm. We kept our sense of humor and compassion for one another. I, for one, was ready to leave and move into a family. Hell I was ready to move anywhere. The training was grueling both physically and emotionally. Try sitting Indian style on a hard floor for hours at a time. Damn it’s uncomfortable. At least now I don't squirm around as much as I used to trying to get into a comfortable position, which is an impossible task. We took 6 hours of language each day + the enormous amount of work for the projects that were required for training in our particular sector. Lounging on my chaise in San Diego petting the kitties, I could not have imagine just how tired, hungry, hot, dirty, cranky and overwhelmed I could get in just 2 short months. It is hot here. I mean really, really hot with no relief. For any of you that caught me in the last afternoon at the height of the heat, I was certainly the worse for wear, whining and whimpering. All made additionally uncomfortable because women have to wear all of these clothes. We live outdoors 7/24 in110 degree heat in long skirts. Add a slip if the skirts are too sheer. I can only think of expletives to describe it.
Actually, the first 3 weeks were the hardest trying settling into my new surrounds. Again, language is the key. I was lucky that I landed in a family, that if you had been magically plunked down in their courtyard, you’d have a hard time figuring out why the Peace Corps is in Mauritania. The father was from the Ivory Coast. He speaks French, English and Hassaniya as well as Bambara. My sister in law, a young lady of 21, is from Senegal. She has the most beautiful French accent. My youngest brother,18 , also speaks French beautifully as well as the language of chaos, a quote from Heather W, a fellow trainee. Meaning, he could understand my as well as the other trainees Frenglish and translate our needs and wants to his fellow citizens. It was utterly amazing. Dad came to Mauritania in 1967. He intended to stay for just awhile to earn money to move to France, but he met his wife and soon came the first of 9 sons. Thus in Southern Mauritania he stayed. He was an educator donc 6 of the 9 fils have passed the BAC and have or are attending the only University in Mauritania. This is an ASTOUNDING feat as only 10% of each graduating class passes the BAC. Sadly if you don’t pass the BAC, you can not attend University, and you have little opportunity but the military for work. We had 2 computers (no internet), a car, were building an addition to the house and we watch EuroNews each night. As I said, they were very progressive. We discussed politics, religion, mine as well as theirs (I was surprised by how much we agreed I’d love to give you more details, but not on a public blog), Steve Jobs, Bill Gates (and the competition between Apple and Microsoft), Warren Buffet, Barak Obama. I loved these discussions. They were a mixture of bad French, bad English and lots of patience while one of us would grab the dictionary to find the word we needed. All time being mindful of the dictionary so that the goats or sheep wouldn’t eat it. The other trainees were quite jealous of my interactions because I was able to not only practice my French and also have meaningful dialogue about issues of interest. My family is wonderful and I am so very lucky to have been placed in their home. We also exhausted what little I know of Rap. Is Beyonce white or black? Is Eminem white or black? Is Shakira America? Is that song in English? Apparently, America is a place where there are many ways to become rich, singing, acting, rapping or sports. Remind me to start applying to those professions when I get home.
One Friday I came home from class early and couldn’t help but notice that our yard was overrun with children. I asked Dad why. He replied Charity. We were feeding the neighborhood children. He then asked if Americans give to charity. An astounding question I thought as he had a Peace Corps VOLUNTEER sitting under his hangar. And I was the 4th trainee that had stayed at their house over the years. I am not sure that the word volunteer translates into this culture. I explained that yes Americans give both of their money and their TIME. He was aware that the US government gave a lot of money to aid but he wasn’t sure if the people did as well. Again, thru French and English, I explain that the US government has no money of it’s own to give. The American people pay taxes to support it and elect officials who will do our will. Inshallah. The money that our government donates to the world in aid is money directly from the American people. A government by the people, for the people, if you will. This concept seems so simple but folks, remember, Mauritania just this last Spring had their first free elections. Prior to that, speaking out against the government could prove fatal. That is why being in Mauritania right now, while they struggle with creating a democracy WITH accountability is so exciting. Inshallah They have their work cut out for them. From what I have been told there is still a lot of corruption and without connections and money, there is little opportunity here. That kind of atmosphere can breed much, much discontent. Keep your fingers and toes crossed for their progress.
I then spied a newly hatched chick that was the bright yellow color of Peeps. I had a quick flash of home and I tried to explain to Dad that Peeps were marshmallow candy that we give at Easter. Coming off of that charity conversation, he now thinks that we give little chicks to the poor at the Ascension. I didn’t have the heart to explain that indeed no, we give the poor nothing on Easter. We just eat bright yellow candy. Damn the nuance in language. I’ll save that for another day.
Another conversation with one of my brothers was about the internet. It will be a great catalyst for change in the youth of Mauritania according to him. Somehow we got on the subject of how in other parts of the world ie: Myanmar and China, the internet is regulated by their government. Those counties populations didn't have unbiased information and couldn't access Yahoo and Google. Stunned at that information, he quickly asked me if I had had problems with access to information via the cyber in Mauritania. I still am moved by the look of relief when I told him that no, I personally had not experienced any problems accessing websites while in Mauritania.
As progressive as my family is, nutrition and sanitation were lacking as was indoor plumbing. We laid in repose and dined with our livestock at arms length away or lapping out of our bowls if we weren't sufficiently attentive. It is impossible to describe my life here to you and as impossible to relay my life in the US to them. Par Example: they wanted to know if we all had great big hangars (permanent tents) in our yards as they do. I assume they believe that because America is the Promised Land, we must have magnificent hangars and undoubtedly, through American ingenuity, had made the hangers grander in ways they hadn’t thought possible. Alas, I tried to explain that we didn’t live in our yards. We lived inside our houses, in buildings with air conditioning when it was hot and heating when it was cool. Screens kept out the bugs. We also have furniture and thusly, did not sit on the floor, eat on the floor, sleep on the floor, cook on the floor. Oh how I long for a work surface that is not the floor.
I am in Small Enterprise Development (SED) 6 other SED volunteers and myself spent all of our days together either in language class or working on one of the many projects. We became a very close knit group. When no one else could understand our French, we always knew what the other one was trying to say. It was our own little language. This proved very helpful while working with our local business people on our Consulting Dossier. One of us always knew what the other was trying to express, and could usually find the correct verb. Creating a Consulting Dossier would normally be an easy task of sitting down for a few hours and discussing someone's business practices, I believe this is much of what I did with McGraw Hill. But alas, we spoke different languages which made this task monumentally difficult and challenging. Much use was made of the dictionary and something akin to charades. I applaud these folks for their enormous patience and the time they took to aid us in our training. All of their cooperation was a direct result of the work and integration that the prior SED volunteer had done at the last 2 years in this site. Aaron is beloved to them. He went home, back to the USA, on 9/15 and his enthusiasm for PC work and the people of Mauritania will be greatly missed.
But now, training is over. I left my family viklempt with a promise to call and visit soon. The now 66 were sworn in as new PC RIM (Republique Islamic Mauritanie) Volunteers on 9/6 and scattered all over this large country. I won't see most of them until Christmas in Nouakchott and then only occasionally during the next 2 years. That prospect makes me a little sad as they are quite dear to me. It is rare to get a group this large and have each and every one plugged in. No one is ever in the back rolling their eyes. Well almost never. We each gave up the comforts of home to try to make a difference to the world, to our spirits or both. I have moved to my permanent site which is Atar in the Adrar region of Mauritania. You can look it upon the web as it is the only tourist area of Mauritania. Yes, I am living in the Sahara. I now have a new group of new and veteran volunteers with whom I am becoming thick as thieves. As it was in Training, I am senior by many years but it's all working out. I occasionally offer up sage advice. Sometimes I actually believe that I sound like Doris. Who knew she was so smart?
For those of you interested in the age thing, at our closing party at our training site, I played the sound track from The Big Chill. Everyone enjoyed the tunes and after some discussion, I found out that some of the volunteers weren't even out of the womb when this movie was released. Enough said.
Also, does having to use reading glasses to read your ipod make you hip or old? Ruminate on that and get back to me.
Okay, this is enough for today. I have so many stories, thoughts, realizations and revelations from the last 2 months all of which I wish I could share with you. But alas. Lesley said it nicely when she pointed out to me that it is rare in your life when every single day provides you endless opportunities to learn something absolutely new. I try to keep that in the front of my brain with each new and exciting "opportunity". Tonight, I am going to try to buy popcorn in the market so that we can have it with our next two episodes of LOST. I see pre popped corn being sold in little baggies so the kernels must be somewhere. I believe the best verb to use is explode. Wish me luck.
Wow would I have packed differently knowing what I know now.
List of much appreciated supplies
Send Often
Deodorant, suave invisible solid, any scent
Q-tips
Disposable razors
Heel Razors
Excedrin or Tylenol PM
Alka Seltzer Cold Nighttime
Narrow brush picks by DenTek, they are blue and I found by the toothpaste in target. Come in 8 packs.
Emory Boards
All-in-one facial cleansers/moisturizers just add water.
(Olay makes a good one as does Mary Kay) plus the little towelettes can be reused.
Little Hotel soap, we always need some in our bags for sanitation
Ziplock storage bags and containers.
A big box of Kleenex-feel free to repack in ziplock
Small Spiral Notebook for my purse
Bumble and Bumble Shampoo
Books
DVD's (we have LOST 1,2 ; Season 4,5,6 of Seinfeld; All of Sportsnight)
Wine yeast : )
Sooner than later
Garden Seeds and plant food spikes (they are light weight)
Lettuces and spinach
Journal= Jane I have quite a few in that box I left for you
Just need once
Brush, detangler
Pocket French Verb book
Wikipedia off line
Purse sized Week at a Glance Agenda for 08
Twin Sheets
Sunglasses
Letter combo lock rather than numbers
Cutting Board (the big, lightweight, thin, roll up kind)
Pancake Turner
Can opener that works really well
Potato peeler that works really well
1 Cup Measuring cup and spoons
World map
Sturdy fold up hand fan for my purse
Wash clothes--cheap
Dish clothes--cheap
Undergarmets
Boxer shorts size L
Mens boxer briefs seem like they would be really comfortable. Size M. They are more fitted than regular boxer shorts but cooler than bike shorts (remember the hot temps and long skirts)
Wife beaters, size XL
Crocs, the bottom has a circle with a 5 and a circle with a 7 for the size. My wardrobe is primarily blue brown or green. Pick whatever you like
Nutritious snacks, nuts, dried fruit, beef jerky, protein bars,
Peanut butter
Hard candy
Parmesan Cheese (stinky socks)=needs no refrigeration and full of cheesy flavor (did I mention that there is no cheese in this country)
Deviled ham
Oatmeal packets= any flavor
Soup mixes = double check what I have to add besides water
Aluminum packets of salmon, tuna and or shrimp even Chicken
Bullion cubes/ chicken flavor and lower salt
Rennet - powered
Spice mixes = survival spice, garlic salt, celery salt
Marshmallows
Crackers
Any powered food mix that can be made with oil, butter, milk, tomato paste or water
Would love to haves
Replacement Brookstone travel clock with date and temperature reading in f and c-feather light if they still make it. I squished the current one and the alarm no longer works
Pirate gear
Badminton (I have a huge courtyard)
Volleyball
Blow up swimming pool
Apples to Apples card game
Twister = this might be on the way.
For the upcoming holiday
Thanksgiving side dishes = stuffing, pie crust mix with pan,
Brown sugar
Powdered sugar
Toffee (for making cookies)
Cinnamon, Nutmeg
Lightweight, cheap Christmas Decorations.
For the heavy stuff, remember USPS has a fixed rate box rate to Mauritania for $37 for what ever you can get stuffed in it. It's about 15 x 2.5 x 12 ish
Pack well. The boxes look like hell when they arrive.
Self closing containers are best.
